History Of Fashion: Ancient Rome

The legend tells that Rome was founded on April 21, 753 BC, by the twin sons of Mars, Romulus and Remus. Romulus killed his brother over the throne and became the sole ruler of Rome. He reigned until 715 BC, when he was succeeded by Numa Pompilius, the founder of Roman law and its religious practices.

With time, Roman power, influence and territory grew to unprecedented proportions in the ancient world. By the end of the Republic (31 BC), Rome controlled the entire Mediterranean. They defeated their most powerful rivals, the Carthaginians, and took over many of the lands ruled by the Greeks, including Egypt. Although, eventually ancient Rome was sacrificed at the altar of its own internal struggles for power, it was not before it had written its name under one of the most important periods in humankind’s history. Two thousand years later, ancient Rome remains an endless inspiration of art, culture, architecture, and even fashion.

Costume

Roman costume was influenced by the styles of previous civilizations, such as the Etruscans and the Greeks, and also reflected the dress of conquered peoples, although in a lesser degree. It comprised two main categories: indutus, items that were put on, and amictus, clothing wrapped or draped around the body. The wide range of climates that existed within the vast Roman Empire led to the creation of the seasonal dressing concept. Dress was adapted to the specific seasons and weather conditions.

Women’s clothing

Women’s clothes were made of light materials and in a variety of colors, which set them apart from men’s clothes. Also, unlike men’s dress, women’s clothes changed little. The primary garment was the stola, a long tunic with full sleeves. It was made from wool, cotton or linen, with the more expensive designs made from silk. The stola was worn with a girdle known as cingulum and a wide belt, known as a succinda. With the help of these, women achieved to create a double-bloused effect. Under the stola women wore a bust bodice – the strophium, and a sleeveless shift dress – the subucula.

Roman matrons wore wide tunics, pleated into tiny folds, which were held together at the shoulder by a series of buttons along the sleeve.

The palla was a warm piece of cloth with a hood, fastened with a clasp. Another outer garment was the sapparum, worn by women of the upper class, which had short sleeves, and the olicula, which basically was a short cape.

Men’s clothing

In the early days of the Republic, Roman men wore a simple linen loincloth known as the subligaculom or licinium. By the time of the empire, only athletes and workmen were permitted to wear loincloths. Romans, unlike the Greeks, were not tolerant of nudity. They did, however, inherit from them their two main garments: the tunic and the cloak. The basic short-sleeved tunic consisted of two pieces of wool cloth joined at the shoulders and down the sides, with slits for the head and arms. It was gathered at the waist with a belt, but could also be worn with a girdle.

There were different tunic styles for different occasions and social ranks. Magistrates wore the Tunica angusti clavi, which had two narrow purple stripes on each shoulder. The Tunica laticlavia, worn by senators, featured wider purple stripes. Made from purple silk and embroidered with gold thread, the Tunica palmata was worn by victorious generals. It consisted of two pieces and was worn together with the Toga picta. There were also other tunics, such as the Tunica recta, the Subucula and Tunica exteriodum, and the Caracaila.

The most important mantle was the toga, which was descended from the Greek himation and the Etruscan tebenna. The draped, elliptically shaped woolen piece of fabric was reserved for Roman citizens; slaves, foreigners, and lower classes were forbidden from wearing it. The toga’s decoration, color and shape denoted the wearer’s social rank. As did the manner in which the toga was draped.

The different forms of togas included the Toga picta, which signified victory and was worn by Roman generals on specific occasions. This toga was property of the state and only loaned to generals for ceremonial wear. Another toga was the Toga candida, which was worn by candidates for public office. Mourners wore the Toga pulla, which was either black, dark brown or gray, and had a head cover. The solid purple Toga trabea was worn by spiritual men. The same toga with purple and crimson stripes was reserved for the augurs or omens interpreters, while the purple and white one revealed the rulers of the Republic.

With the expansion of the Empire, Rome came to include in its territories much of northern Europe, which translated into harsher climatic conditions. Warm outer garments became a necessity. The Roman wardrobe included the sagum – a blanket-like wrap, taken from the Gauls; the lacerna, a rectangular piece of wool, draped over the shoulders, which had to be fastened with a clasp; the pallum – or women’s palla – was a short rectangular cloak, influenced by the Greek himation; the paludanentum, was an enlarged version of the Greek chlamys, worn by Roman generals.

The author is the founder and owner of Adriana Allen LLC – a European fashion brand offering handmade and one-of-a-kind handbags and fashion accessories. You can learn more about world fashion, fashion’s history, and how to buy fashion accessories at our official blog


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The Complete History Of Neckties

The necktie has its jump-start into fashion 333 years prior to the new Millennium. A King, a war, a mercenary army with an unusual dress and a noble cause and that no less set the stage for a fashion accessory that lives on to this day. “There is a clear-cut relationship between fashion on one hand, and power and wealth on the other. Fashion generally follows power and wealth.” This old adage spells out the creation of the evolution on neckwear not its origin. However, without this acceptance of tying cloth around a man’s neck in the 17th century, neckties would not have had their fateful way in the world.

 

Ties were an unusual thought as a fashion accessory in China in 221 B.C., the first known existence of fabric wrapping a man’s neck. In the Neckwear industry this is an interestingly known fact, as a result of the excavation in China of the “Terracotta Army of the first Emperor of China” in 1970 – Among the 7000 terracotta soldiers un-earthed dressed in armor, many of which had a necktie wrapping their necks. The use of neckwear in China ended after the Han Dynasty took rule and neckwear would not be seen again in China until the 20th century. In 101 – 106 B.C. the Roman Military is seen in paintings with neckwear worn as a random uniform. Although non-Roman soldiers were probably the only to wear at “necktie” as it is common thought that the fashion rule of Rome kept necks free of cloth.

 

A little more then 1,600 years later, again in the form of military dress – is the introduction of men’s neckwear seen by historians. Historians noticed for the third time, and also the first widely recognized appearance of neckwear, during a thirty-year ‘religious” war in the early 17th century waged by King Charles V of Spain against reformists. Fashion trends developed as soldiers from all of Europe fought and cultures and dress clashed. Mutual respect and honor followed the battles that inflamed all of the European Continent creating changes that effected at the very least acceptance of religious belief, geography and national borders, cultural tolerance, government, a realignment of European power and influence, and even fashion.

 

The dress accepted “fashionable” throughout most of Europe was lace ruffs around the neck. Even after the Middle Ages, dress was “ruled appropriate” for each class. War was expensive forcing many cost savings measures, and fashion was one cut back as men were to adorn ruffs with a strict law allowing men to wear ruffs only at funerals and other such occasions, ( ruffs were an expensive use of lace up top 15 meters ). The Croatian soldier wearing a cravatta or cravat ( English translation “necktie” ) as part of his uniform caught the attention of the continent. This Middle Age Custom or dress was in part, a form of identification on the battlefield and also part of folk costume. Wearing this neckwear in battle throughout Europe, the Croatian Soldiers gained respect – widely known for their mercenary ways. They were recruited along with German Soldiers by France, in 1635, after France declared war on Spain – entering the conflict, short on troops and willing to hire soldiers. The Croatian soldiers and their cravats were noticed not only by many European Nations including the fashionable French, but more importantly by royalty. By fate, around this time the shirt collar – turned down came into fashion, a result of the formal decree by all countries ruled by Spain, Austria and other Catholic countries banning ruffs” Capitulos de reformacias 1623″. This was a time that the “golilla” a Spanish term for a linen and cardboard collar was accepted. And a fine cloth to wrap the collar closed was a natural.

 

However, the necktie or cravat was only noted by the French, and not accepted as a fashion style. Only after two decades, did King Louis XIV of France, 1638 – 1715, fancy the cravat. The necktie-cravat was not “accepted attire” at court as old standing customs governed fashion. This changed when the Queen Mother Anne of Austria ( born in Spain ) died giving King Louis XIV rule of his right. A painting by Henri Testelin hangs at Versailles depicting King Louis XIV wearing a cravat. His necktie collection was extensive made from fine fabrics and styled by the most revered fashion designers of the time. He had is own “cravatier” who would lay our several cravats each day for the King to select which one he would wear. With-in one year of King Louis XIV acceptance of the cravatte, London’s elite became enamored by the fashion and King Charles II of England the British spent fortunes on expensive lace from Venice to have his neckwear made.

 

The “Royal Cravates” regiment of Croatian soldiers, formed in 1667, wore cravats made of linen, lace, and muslin. Uniforms for soldiers were not commonplace among military and this neckwear dress was a distinctive dress. The Royal Cravats fighting as mercenaries for France and with the French support, suffered great losses politically while attempting a “coup” in a struggle for self rule. The country of Croatia never fully recovered from the failed conspiracy against their un-wanted rule by the Halsburgs. They were different, noble and they had a political cause that may have drawn sympathy from King Louis XIV. His acceptance of the Cravat was the birth of a fashion phenomenon that swept the globe and continuing today in men’s attire. The Dutch, Belgians, and even English authors were fond of cravats but the credit for making the cravat fashionable was King Louis XIV. Thus, “fashion follows power and wealth.”

 

Napoleon had his influence as did most military leaders.  The French led the fashion world through the 18th Century up until the French Revolution of 1789-1799. English influence became predominant after the beginning of the 19th Century. “George” Beau Brummel 1778 – 1840 a leader in British Fashion of the day brought the necktie to great innovation influencing the Prince of Wales – later to become King George IV. Beau Brummel’s details of necktie knotting and design won him favor with England and most of Europe. Ties were still black or white and great discussion was involved about this in England, Germany, France, Italy and other European nations. In 1820 when King George V was crowned he introduced the black tie, which was not so popular with his guests – who often kept a white tie in their pockets.  After the beginning of 19th Century colored neckties and neckties with patterns, mostly with stripes at first, appeared partially due to the influence of schools, hunting clubs, sports teams, and military uniform.  By the mid 19th Century neckties started to resemble modern day neckwear.

 

Since the British had colonies throughout the world their necktie fashion spread to almost every continent with China the only exception. The French did not except the British fashion and tried to go their own way concerning men’s fashion and neckwear. Great men throughout history wore neckties; Napoleon I Emperor of France wore his cravat – a soldier from a young age, as did George Washington – soldier and the first President of the United States, Benjamin Franklin a statesman, and Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, ( certainly not a soldier or politician ). Any painting depicting these honored men and other celebrated men will illustrate a cravat tied around their necks.

 

The shape and design of colors and patterns of the cravat changed and of course the military again, dictated this. Before the turn of the 20th century, realizing that their soldiers were easy targets wearing bright red uniforms, the British were outfitted with drab green uniforms. Each regiment decided on their own, what tie to wear with a different stripe going across in a pattern of colors and stripe width. With this need to be individual the “Rep Stripe” necktie was born. Across the Atlantic American soldiers followed suite, however the stripes go the other way. European Rep Stripe vs. American Rep Stripe. The difference is the direction of the stripe from the left shoulder crossing the heart or from the right shoulder crossing the heart.

 

This New World American vs. the Old World European look was distinctive and of course gave way to British designers fashion designers creating ties with poka-dots and colorful patterns. After the turn of last century these fancy designs produced an un-likely trend with retailers – ties were designed much like a women’s thought for fashion – but for a product meant for a man. This was a marketing ploy probably, as fashion houses took note that women were buying their men neckties. Appealing to their sense of color and style was natural.

 

The Duke and Duchess of Windsor – now that is quite another story. It was not just by chance that the famous necktie knot became to be known worldwide as the Windsor.  This British Royal gave the World the beautiful and symmetrical Windsor Tie Knot.  The most popular necktie knot “The Windsor Knot” was named after the Duke of Windsor against his wishes. Folklore has it that his father King George V passed down this knot along with the crown jewels.  In 1936, after just a one year reign as King of Britain, Edward the VIII abdicated his throne to marry Wallis Warfield Simpson an American divorcee – women he was rumored to having an affair with. His brother took his throne and the title of Duke of Windsor was given to him. The dashing gentleman captivated the world with his sacrifice of the throne for love. He sported the symmetrical necktie knot that American journalists adorned and inadvertently gave him credit for during the fan fair of publicity and photographs of the Paparazzi.

 

This was a very meaningful contribution to fashion as this tie knot is the knot that commands the most attention and respect.  It is fairly easy if you know how to do it.  The problem is almost no one knows the easy way to tie this fashionable tie knot.  The Duke in a series of photographs showed the World a very complicated method to create this tie knot.  What could be the greatest hoax of last century, save the Beatles Paul McCartney being dead, the Duke made the tie knotting difficult by changing a key move when completing the knot.  Presumably he must have motivated by the fact that the no one should be so handsome and distinguished as the Blue Blood Royals.

 

A major contribution to the necktie was by an American tie manufacturer Jesse Langsdorf. His idea was simple; three pieces of fabric cut and sewn together with the invention of the slip stitch along the back of the tie closing the envelope. This stitch allowed the tie to move along the closing thread while tying knots; eliminating ironing and necktie damage from the abuse of the taking the tie on and off. The necktie had reached it’s present form in 1924 of the patented design.

 

The modern tie as we know it evolved from this form. Shrinking in width every 15 years or so from about 1 ½ inches to about 4 ½ inches in accordance with shirt collar and lapel width and shape and the shape of a jacket opening. Salvador Dali created the first recognized novelty ties taking his artwork and illustrating ties much to the surprise of the art world. Peter Max among others followed with unique neckties for a man to express himself.

 

The 80′s saw the “Power Tie” and the 90′s saw casual dress take it’s toll. Still neckwear remained a statement of being serious about business and of course being silly. The silly side gave way to fun ties. Novelty neckties illustrating themes, hobbies, Van Gogh Art work and Marilyn Monroe, etc. by the Mark Abramhoff’s  Ralph Marlin Company became wildly popular in the 90′s. At a time when fashion was pushing all limits Gianni Versace created neckties with enough emotion, color and vivid design to stop traffic and get recognized. And then came Pancaldi designs that were elegant and super colorful.  Rush Limbaugh designs were created with enough color and abstract patterns that they gave way to cause a national phenomenon in America.

Ties had truly become an important fashion accessory using color and pattern to create a means of a man’s self-expression. If the King of France, King Louis XIV could have ever imagined what he started. Well that is one the French can claim for the record.

 

Fashion and Novelty Ties by http://www.nicetiestore.com

by Jeffrey Hunter

Jeffrey Hunter has been involved with retailing and designing neckties since 1996. He started selling ties to Los Angeles and Orange County car salesmen out of the trunk of 1966 Lincoln Continental. Several kiosks in Orange County at Newport Fashion Island and the Irvine Spectrum called Too Sexie Ties proved successfully but too much work. From the summer 2001 he has built web sites that offer collector ties like Spiderman, Disney and really wild ties on line. He is now designing ties that rival Rush Limbaugh’s designs from over ten years ago. Currently his finds can be seen at www.nicetiestore.com Fashion and Novelty Ties by http://www.nicetiestore.com


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Brief History of Condoms in 2008

It might be surprising but the concept behind condoms has been around since for thousands of years. Ancient Egyptians have been depicted in images as wearing linen sheaths. However, this is debatable as they could have used these condom-like covers for their rituals rather than protection. Cave paintings, possibly from 100-200 A.D. were found in France illustrating the use of condoms or sheaths. This is the earliest evidence of condom usage in Europe.

An Italian named Gabrielle Fallopius was the first man who actively researched and performed tests about linen sheaths used for protection during sexual intercourse. Out of the 1,100 men he tested, none of them became infected with Syphilis. His research was focused on preventing sexually transmitted diseases, but it was later on proven that the linen sheaths were also excellent contraceptives. Casanova has also been known to favor the use of condoms, and referred to it as his ?Redingote Anglaise? or English Riding Coat. In Asia, the Japanese made use of thin leather as condoms and called it ?Kawagata?. They also used tortoiseshell or horn to make their condoms and called it ?Kabutogata?. Dr. Condom or Dr. Conton, who was rumored to be the physician of King Charles II of England, provided the King with condoms made from animal gut. Many have said that the condom was named after him. However, the condom actually came from the latin word ?condus? which means receptacle.

As early as 1844, Hancock and Goodyear have begun mass producing condoms made from vulcanized rubber. The result was a strong, thin, elastic rubber that served as a contraceptive and excellent prophylactic. Almost a century after the introduction of the first rubber condom, the liquid latex condoms were invented. Latex condoms were thin, provided more protection from infection and pregnancy. A long way from when goat guts were used, the first Polyurethane condoms were introduced during the 1990s. These condoms, which many have come to associate with Durex condoms, are thinner and more sensitive than their old latex counterparts. There are now different condoms in the market, colored, studded, ribbed, flavored and glow in the dark. Condoms for women were introduced in early 2000 and has grown in popularity ever since.

The first condom advertisement appeared in the New York Times publication in 1861. It was called Dr. Power?s French Preventatives. However, the Religious sector was not entirely happy with the growing number of advertisements as well as the increase in sales of condoms. The Comstock Law was passed sometime in 1873, which prohibited the advertisement of condoms. To discourage people from selling and buying condoms, the Postal Service started confiscating condoms that were being sold through mail. There were also Social Hygienists who believed that the condom should not be used by Americans. But their plight proved disastrous as more than 75% of the US Troops in World War I became infected with various kinds of STDs. After such a catastrophe, the US government began aggressively promoting the use of condoms during the World War II.

For more information on Condoms or Durex Condoms, please visit our website.


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A short film on the process of turning flax to linen in the pioneer Canadian home.
Video Rating: 4 / 5

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History of Belfast 1900-1910

By the year 1900 Belfast was growing quickly and was in fact the largest city in Ireland and the twelfth largest in the United Kingdom.  In 1896 the White Linen Hall had been knocked down and was being replaced with what is now known as Belfast City Hall.

This new building was considered by the merchants of Belfast to be a much grander affair for such a growing and booming city. The designer of the City Hall was Alfred Brumwell Thomas, a young London architect.  Under his design the City Hall was built by H&J Martin and cost at that time almost twice its planned budget and a whopping £360,000.  This prompted an enquiry by the Local Government Board in Dublin Castle.

The Portland stone building was opened in 1906 with a rich Italian marble interior and a dome that was 173 feet high.  At the same time all around the City Hall new and impressive buildings were being erected which included the Northern Bank, The Scottish Provident Association and the Ocean Buildings.

Various other impressive buildings were opened including Custom House in 1901, the Royal Victoria Hospital in 1903, and The Mater Hospital in 1900. Students of medicine were also taught there.

Belfast had a population at this time of 350,000 and many of the people lived in kitchen and parlour terraced houses.  The cost of living was high and living conditions were tough.  So tough were they they led to the Belfast Dock Strike in 1907.  Jim Larkin, a Liverpool man arrived at this time to organise a branch of the National Union of Dockers.

For children the death rate was high due mainly to typhoid and tuberculosis. Only strong action by the medical officer Dr H.W.Baillie and the introduction of clean water from the Mourne Mountains finally eradicated these two dreadful diseases.

Belfast continued to develop with the city boundary being ever extended to include middle class suburbs and areas such as:

Rosetta
Bloomfield
The Glen Road

As these suburbs grew steadily people left the City Centre and then travelled in and out by tram.  The City Centre developed as a commercial centre and also as a place for entertainment.  Buildings such as the Opera House opened in 1895, and The Hippodrome also opened its doors around this time.  As far back as 1873 the Alhambra Theatre opened and was Belfast’s most popular music hall.

The shipyard, rope making and linen were the mainstay of manufacturing though during the tough recession of 1904/5 life was tough for Belfast citizens.  Belfast did remain the busiest port in Ireland but it depended heavily on the export of linen, rope, tobacco, tea machinery and various engineering products.  Belfast in turn depended completely on Scottish coal and ships arrived daily to supply it.

From Belfast with a love of writing, especially about anything Irish and especially Ireland’s History. Check http://belfastblog.net/belfast-history/belfast-history-1900/“>My Belfast Blog for more details


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History Of Contraception

History of contraception began with the history of mankind. Women of all cultures, rich and poor, young and mature, tried to protect themselves from unwanted pregnancy and freely enjoy sexual life.

Many methods of contraception have been known since ancient times. The first mention of the prevention of pregnancy found in the Bible: coitus interrupts is mentioned in chapter 38 of Genesis, in the history of Judah and Tamar. This method is applied to this day!

Around 1850 BC in ancient Egypt, representatives of the upper classes used the contraceptive sponges, which prevented the penetration of sperm into the uterus and even caused the death of spermatozoa. They are made of crocodile dung, various resins and a mixture of honey and soda.

Of the works of Aristotle is known that the ancient Greeks used a variety of oils and spices, to impede the penetration of sperm into the uterus. In addition, the men rubbed the penis juniper berries, and the women drank the infusion of copper sulphate. Also, the Greeks practiced the calendar method – abstinence during ovulation in women.

Arab doctors 14 th century encouraged the men to rub the penis rock salt, gum, onion juice and fir oil, and women – to use tampons soaked in pomegranate juice.

In Eastern Europe half a squeezed lemon served as a diaphragm, while citric acid acted as a spermicide.

Prototype condom appeared in ancient Egypt, where blankets were made for the penis from the intestines of animals. In 1504, the Italian anatomist Fallopian developed a condom made of linen. In the 18 century, such linen condoms used the famous Italian seducer Casanova. Rubber condoms appeared in 1880. In the 1930′s, with the opening of the latex condom manufacturing technology has been significantly improved.

First IUDs (intrauterine device) was made in Germany from the threads of the silkworm and silver rings.

Barrier methods are used for more than 70 years.

In the 1950′s scientists have developed synthetic analogues of sex hormones, are able to block ovulation. The world’s first hormonal oral contraceptive has been approved by the U.S. Office of sanitary supervision over the quality of food and medicine in 1960.

This brief overview of the history of contraception in different cultures clearly shows that protection against unwanted pregnancy has never been so easy and convenient as it is today.Now you can enjoy the love without fear of unwanted pregnancy.

Source: birth control effectiveness


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The Condom: A History Of ?Material? Changes

Though the condom we have today is basically the same as the condoms we remember throughout our lifetime, there is a rich history of the condom.

The Early Centuries

Throughout the history of the condom , it was used for both birth control and to avoid sexually transmitted diseases. The condom is depicted in some ancient art, as far back as 12,000 – 15,000 years old. It is difficult to know what material those condoms depicted were made of. There is, however, a legend of Minos, which is recorded in 150 AD, that lends credence to the idea that there were condoms in ancient history . In this legend, Minos suffers from a curse that makes his semen have scorpions and serpents. In order to keep his semen from hurting the women, he would use a goat’s bladder ( as a female condom) to protect them.

Renaissance Years: 1500 – 1800

By around 1500 AD, there were glans condoms, which only covered the top of the penis. In China, these were made of oiled silk paper or lamb intestine. In Japan, they used animal horn or tortoise shell.

In 1494 there was a major syphilis outbreak, and by 1594, the method of combating it was to use a condom. At this point, a condom was a linen sheath soaked in a chemical solution and dried prior to use. They were just big enough to cover the head of the penis, and were held in place by a ribbon. During the Renaissance time period, condoms were also made out in animal bladders and intestines. By the last 15th century, there were condoms being brought over to Japan by Dutch traders. They were made out of “fine leather,” and – really for the first time – covered the whole of the penis.

During the 18th century, the history of condoms is more documented. Condoms were available in many forms: in various sizes, and from either linen or “skin” (which was intestine or bladder softened by being treated with sulphur and lye). They were also more widely available. They could be found in barbershops, chemist shops, at the theater and in the open-air markets, as well as in pubs.

Rubberization – Thank You, Charles Goodyear!

The first rubber condom was made in 1855, giving the condom’s history to have its first drastic change. These could be reused, making them a more economical choice long term, though initially the skin condoms were still cheaper and allowed more sensitivity.

Initially, condoms were made of rubber by wrapping strips of raw rubber around molds shaped like penises. The molds were then dipped in a chemical solution to cure the rubber. Originally, these were made to fit just the glans – or tip – of the penis, and a man would have to have a doctor measure him to get the right size. Unfortunately, they also often fell off during use. Soon, the rubber manufacturers realized they could sell more by making full-length, condoms that were “one size fits all.”

In 1912, a new manufacturing method was developed – they used a raw rubber solution, and dipped glass molds into it. Using this dipping method, the French manufacturers were able to add textures to the condoms they produced – and the history of the condom was influenced again.

Original article : History of condom

Original article : History of condom


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www.linencabinet.co The history of furniture is quite an interesting reflection of social development over the years, culminating in recent times with totally new forms of furniture such as CD and DVD storage towers and entertainment center cabinets. Even those types of furniture with a long history, such as a linen cabinet, have there own history of evolution. In fact linen cabinets are quite a good example to look at, as they have spanned many centuries. An antique linen cabinet would undoubtedly been made of solid wood and normally by local craftsmen, although an outstanding cabinet maker may have gained a reputation that stretched far and wide to the nobility and royal families. The cabinets they made would have been solid and sturdy and mostly with carvings that would make the furniture more attractive. The linen they housed would depend on where in the home the cabinet was designed for and sited. Fine bed linens would be folded neatly away in a linen cabinet placed in the bedroom itself in some homes but often in a hallway or on a landing; maybe in grander homes they would be placed in a wash room or what we now call a laundry room. There was also, and still is, another type of linen cabinet designed for storing table linen; tablecloths, napkins etc. Such furniture would normally be kept in or near the dining room but it might well be designed to accommodate things other than linen too, such as crockery, glasses, cutlery and other dining needs. Such styles of dining …

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Cuban Culture ? The History of the Guayabera

This elegant, comfortable, and cool piece of clothing has been worn by several generations of Cubans and lots of foreigners. Coming with a great acceptance in the tropics because it is made of cotton or fine linen, it is believed that it was created by the wife of a countryman in the region of Santi Spiritus, Cuba, around 1709; designed actually as a comfortable piece of clothing for field labor. Another version tells that it was created by a Spanish immigrant from Granada who, in his tailor shop in that village, sold long shirts with comfy pockets for keeping cigars and pipe tobacco.

Originally the shirt was known as yayabera because it was used in the region near the Yayabo River. As countrymen used to keep guavas, very abundant in the area, in the huge shirt pockets, the name was changed for the one we know today: guayabera. It is really nice during the summer: fastened up in the front part with nacre buttons, the same type of buttons on the four pockets and the cuffs, with the sides a little bit open to facilitate the collocation of the machete to one side and a knife to the other. All of these characteristics made for rapid adoption by the countrymen.

However, in the mist of the 20th century, a Lebanese tailor named Said Selman created in Cardenas, Matanzas, three new models of the Cuban guayabera with seven new designs for the pockets; changes that revolutionized the piece of clothing completely and became the essence of the patterns commercialized today. Not only had his regular Cuban customers asked for his guayaberas, but also a large number of foreign tourists that were on vacation in the Varadero resort, who began to buy the famous linen guayabera, tailor-made, with 23 nacre buttons, in white or natural colors made with efficiency and skill.

This tailor created and combined guayaberas with casual and smart collars, long and short sleeves, and above all, he eliminated the lists and pleats of fabric sewn on the piece of clothing, initiating the tradition of sewing directly on the fabric without cuts or extra pieces of material. In total, 12 innovations to the guayabera, born in the Yayabo region, are attributed to the Lebanese tailor.

The guayabera has become one of the main trends of international fashion since some years ago. The prices for one piece vary from .99 for a cotton guayabera to 5.99 for an Irish linen guayabera, and if the piece is made of Egyptian linen it can cost up to 5. It is also a part of the female wardrobe now since some New York female designers of Cuban origin have created works using its pattern. In Cuba, some souvenir stores and fashion shops offer it with varied designs, fabrics, and colors. Instead of suits, the guayabera is the official piece of clothing in Cuba for all the public acts and it is accepted in almost all places and events that demand etiquette.

Guayaberas are also produced in Panama, Dominican Republic, Mexico and Puerto Rico; where models and styles are less complex, however. They are also worn in many Asian countries, including Thailand and the Philippines, where they have embroidery instead of pleats.

This brief history of the Cuban Guayabera was written by a Cuba travel expert from Cuba For Less, a specialist in fully customizable Cuba vacation packages.


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History Of Lingerie

The term ‘lingerie’ has been derived from old French ‘linge’, which means linen. Though lingerie has been in use since B.C, the term ‘lingerie’ was not extensively used to refer to the underclothing until the late 1850′s. It is interesting to note that even the mention of lingerie was considered scandalous in ancient times. Lingerie has a great contribution in defining for women what it means to look beautiful and sensuous. The rich and elaborate history of lingerie traces its development from being painful and boyish to evolving into being practical and feminine. Read the article to know the eventful history of lingerie.

Interesting & Amazing Information On Origin & Background Of Lingerie
While it is not possible to trace the exact roots of lingerie, the first record of its use has been collected from Egypt, which dates back to 3000 BC. Several terracotta figurines discovered throughout the ancient Near East suggest that different types of undergarments were worn during those times. Evidence also suggests that lion cloth was also used to make lingerie in ancient Egypt. Many female statues in classical Greece wear a crossed band over their shoulders and across the breast. A band of linen worn by women around the waist and lower torso has been mentioned in the ancient writings of Greece as well.
During the Middle Ages, linen underclothes were worn by nobility to protect their expensive outer dresses from body dirt, as also to provide a layer of warmth. Chemise and later corset were introduced in the 4th & 16th centuries respectively. Chemise was typically worn by women under petticoats. As compared to the ancient dress, modern fashion emerging from Medieval Europe concentrated on tailoring the clothing design according to the body shape. This was the time when women started to wear tight-fitting undergarments, so as to manipulate the shape of their bodies. Corset was extensively used by women in this age.
The beginning of 20th century introduced an alternative to the corset, in the form of bust bodices that supported the bosom as a whole. In 1914, Mary Phelps-Jacobs, an American, patented her lingerie design by the name Caresse-Crosby. The design consisted of two silk handkerchiefs tied to one another with ribbon straps and a seam in the center front. She sold her idea to the Warner’s, which introduced the first sizing with only A, B &C, as late as 1935. In Britain, the junior and medium sizing was used until the 50′s.
All through the 20th century, the development and advancement of manmade fabrics, such as nylon, DuPont’s Lycra,polyester, and Elastane microfibres, brought about changes in the development of lingerie. New fabrics paved way for the fashioning of lightweight, supportive, flexible and seamless lingerie. Estimates show that the lingerie market touched half a million pounds level at the end of the 1990′s. Further advancements in designs and fabrics have been introduced in the new millennia and innovative lingerie designs are establishing their market across the world.

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History Of Fashion: Ancient Egyptian Dress

Women’s dress

The Eighteenth Dynasty, which spans the time period from 1550 until 1292 BC, is probably the most famous of all the dynasties of ancient Egypt. This is the age of the rule of Tutankhamen, as well as of Amenhotep IV and his wife Nefertiti. This is also the Dynasty of Hatshepsut, considered one of the most successful pharaohs and the longest reigning woman of an indigenous Egyptian dynasty.

 Until the Eighteenth Dynasty, the women wore kalasiris, or sheath dress, made from a tube of material sewn along one side. The traditional kalasiris was simple in shape. It fell from below the breasts to above the ankles and was held by two shoulder straps. This could vary however. Archeologists have found kalasiris supported by sleeves instead of straps, or just one strap instead of two. It could also extend over the breast or up to the neck. Although paintings and sculptures portray such costumes as molded tightly over the body, these depictions are deceptive. Surviving clothing is loose and flowing for ease of movement.

Women also wore an ensemble of two separate pieces. It consisted of a wide skirt with horizontal folds and a short, tight bodice with slim-fitting sleeves. It opened back and front and had to be secured with thin cords.

In the Eighteenth Dynasty new dress styles appeared. Depictions of Nefertiti show her in a long, flowing, pleated linen drapery or wearing a long, tight dress under a pleated tunic with wide sleeves that came down to the elbow. A belt fastened below her breasts forms an Empire line, while a beaded collar hung at her neckline.

There was remarkably little change in women’s clothing after the Eighteenth Dynasty, even during the Greek Ptolemaic Dynasty (304-30 BC). As established by the first pharaohs, the exclusive use of draped linen garments and the wearing of similar styles by men and women remained almost unaltered as the main features of ancient Egyptian costume.

Men’s clothing

The traditional male garment was the white linen kilt or schenti, a rectangular cloth wrapped around the lower body and tied in front.  Beneath it, men wore a triangular loincloth sometimes fastened with cord ties. The length, fullness and method of adjustment of the kilt changed with the the wearer’s social position and the historic epoch.

The original schenti was made of leather or hide, which was later replaced by a light cloth, usually linen.

Later kilts were more angular and heavily starched. The stiff cloth would stick out and create a triangle, which emphasized the genital area. This zone was considered sacred for its procreation role.

Men’s costume evolved gradually. One of the first innovations to follow the schenti was the loin skirt. In the Middle Kingdom (2040-1640 BC), men wore long linen skirts over the kilt. They varied in length and were sometimes held in place by a decorative belt.

Egypt’s conquest of Syria in the 15th century BC introduced the tunic and the robe. The Syrian weavers imported sophisticated weaving techniques that led to better textile production. The tunic, a short sleeved nightshirt, could be worn over the schenti, while the robe was complicated in form and was made from of fabric twice as long as the wearer’s height.  It had a wide neckline, wide sleeves and the skirt was gathered at the waist. The robe is probably the most unusual Egyptian garment. 

The author is the founder and owner of Adriana Allen LLC – a European fashion brand offering handmade and one-of-a-kind handbags and fashion accessories. You can learn more about world fashion, fashion’s history, and how to buy fashion accessories at our official blog


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A Brief History Of The Linens You Use Everyday

Derived from Linum, the Latin word for the Flax plant, and the Greek Linon, Linen is a fabric associated with woven textiles known for domestic materials used for bed, bathing, and décor, such as towels, sheets, pillow cases, and tablecloths. Past references to linen, though, included lightweight undergarments like chemises, waist shirts, and lingerie.

Modern linen is composed of natural fibers (Cotton, silk, modals, and sometimes flax) and synthetic fibers (polyester and rayon), although at one time the fabric was made solely of fibers from the flax plant (linum usitatisimum), cotton, or hemp. In some cases, linen was made of a combination of flax fiber, cotton, and hemp. Now three thousand years old, Flax is one of the oldest fibers around and used in small amounts, so combinations continue to be the tradition.

Bulk linen yarn is measured in the lea (symbol: NeL), which equals out to three hundred yards per pound. This specific length (or indirect grist system, as which it is already known) is the count of length units per unit mass. The measurement of lea is calculated as thus: the length in the number of leas X 300. For example, forty lea handkerchiefs X 300 = 40X300= 12,000 yards per pound.

Linen was also used to make what were typically non-fabric items. During the Middle Ages, books (Liber Linteus is the only book surviving made of this fabric), shields, and gambeson were all made (either in whole in part) from linen, the last two due to their strength. Nowadays, billiard cues are wrapped in Irish linen because of the absorbent quality of the fabric. This works well with sweaty hands. Quality paper, too, is made of this fiber, which explains why paper currency is 25% linen and 75% Cotton. Because of its flax consistency, top-grade linen is firm and smooth.

For items composed of better-made material, it’s a good bet that the flax fiber is a part of that intricate combination. Because of flax’s extensive age, Linen is undoubtedly one of the oldest fabrics in the world. It’s understandable why such a fabric is still in use today.

Find more Linen resources and other great topics at www.info-checkpoint.info.


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